Bass Treble Booster Serial Number
Free bass treble booster registration code download software at UpdateStar - Boost bass or treble frequencies, cut bass or treble frequencies, convert to lossless audio formats FLAC, Wav or Mp3.Key features. Free horizontal scroll photo filter gallery code download. Strengthen (boost) or weaken (cut) the energy of specific frequency bands. Boost bass or treble.
Bass Treble Booster Serial Number
One last thing to clarify. The tone knob in the original Tube Screamer is hardly a mid-boost control. The TS has a pretty constant 720 Hz midrange hump, and the tone control fades between a bass emphasis on the low end and a treble emphasis on the high end without much impact to the mid frequencies.
This bass is passive, not active like Leo's Stingray. The controls are volume/bass boost/treble boost, and the three-way switch provides (left to right) series / single coil / single coil with bass boost.
I have lusted after a B00 serial number (i.e., first two years of production) L-1000 for the last few years. I had a very particular configuration in mind - I wanted a sunburst bass with an ebony fretboard.Whenever one came up for sale, it always seemed to be too expensive, too heavy, not quite the configuration I was looking for, etc. I had also never played one or even seen one in the flesh. These are extremely rare birds.As of writing time. for my last 3 gigs, I have gigged without a backup bass, which is a really bad idea. After a recent gear purge, only my Road Worn Precision remained, my main bass for the past 3 years. With my band heading up to Boston for a mini-tour this weekend, I needed a backup bass and I needed it fast. Although I was in absolutely no position to be picky here, I found myself completely paralyzed. No bass on my local (NYC) craigslist or at any Manhattan shops moved me whatsoever. Having something shipped in was not an option considering the time crunch I was under.Pretty much resigned to the fact that I'd be shipping up to Boston with only one bass (and perhaps buying one while up there), as a last-ditch effort for a cheap Precision or something, I went to Castellano's House of Music in my hometown of Staten Island, where I taught music for several years full time.Castellano's is a very cool store, but they mostly carry entry-to-mid level instruments (usually they'll have a couple of Les Pauls on the wall, and it trickles down from there). But wouldn't ya know it - I walk in (having not been there for several years), and what's hanging on the wall but a 1981 G&L L-1000, sunburst, ebony fretboard, in GREAT condition! Before I even picked it up, I knew I'd be leaving with it - and I did.
If you're interested in a Dr. Z M12, please read our M12 Review on the tab above. We helped Dr. Z come up with this amp, so we're extremely proud of it, needless to say. Our review is super detailed and should answer just about any question you'll have about it. The Dr. Z M12 Amp is a clean, low-wattage, pedal platform amp with a few tricks up its sleeve. The M12 amplifier was designed from the ground up to accommodate the pedalboard guitar player. These days, many guitarists have more invested in their pedals than they do their guitars or amps. Problem is, most of them are hindered by the design of the amplifier. They may not know it, but if quality of tone is a concern, they truly are! The bad news is that a low wattage, clean amplifier is hard to do right. VERY HARD. The good news is Dr. Z probably knows EL84s as well as anyone on the planet. He designed a circuit using an EF86 front end with an EL84 power section with slightly less plate voltage across the power tubes, by way of the 5Y3 rectifier. It produced 12 watts, had headroom, was very transparent, but still retained the necessary amount of punch and dynamic, all while remaining uncolored. Genius! Dr. Z had found the cure! The M12 has a tone stack that allows for standard treble and bass sweep up to 12:00. Beyond 12:00 the gain increases in the respective frequencies. The loudest and cleanest tones are found between 10:00 and 2:00 on the bass, treble, and volume controls. Also up front is a Hi and Lo sensitivity switch. Much like the Hi/Lo dual input on many of our amps, this switch will yield clean sounds from hotter pickups in the Lo setting. You can also use the Lo setting for a cleaner input signal for heavy drive and modulation pedals. The Hi setting will yield the strongest dynamics and input gain. All that being said, what happens when you get things really cooking and turn the volume and treble up past 3:00? Youll find over the top dynamics, drive, and chime without ever getting harsh. Think of the M12 as the perfect half powered offspring of the Z Wreck and Stang Ray. You get the clarity of the Stang Ray with the sweetness and ease of the Z Wreck.
To activate the warranty, we encourage you to register your product on: and enter the serial number on the back of your pedal. Please contact us via email firstname.lastname@example.org before shipping a product to us.
It's been a long-time problem among Orange enthusiasts to make sense of the serial numbers, date the amps accurately, and determine when electronic and cosmetic changes were brought about. Recently (as of 2/05), "Orange" from the Plexi Palace discussions forums started a thread with a serial number/dating theory and some concrete info. Others chimed in with concrete info, such as dating amps from dates on speakers, pots, or can caps, and matching the dates to the serial numbers. We think we've put enough info together to get a pretty accurate timeline down for the old Oranges. I thought it would be a good idea to post that here for others to access the info easily. I'm also adding things that I believe to be pretty concrete from other sources i've read (correspondance with people at Orange, Joel at Matamp, and other places). This isn't guranteed accurate, but as of this day, it's definitely the most sense anyone has made of the Orange debocle. For more info on the electrical changes, see the Circuit timeline, below. Year Models Serial #'s Cosmetics (changes in italics) Electronics (changes in italics) Comments 1968-1970 OR100 OR50? 000-??? White "Trafalite" front panel with black lettering. Controls labelled; Depth, Drive, Bass, Treble, Boost, Volume. Most a likely similar circuit to the original Matamps, and old Orange GRO series amps. FAC (aka, "depth") switch very early on in the pre-amp, tone stack later on. "The original Orange amps had a Trafalite front panel (a sandwich of white and black plastic which when engraved through the white revealed the black lettering) The panel had to be reinforced with a mild steel plate" -Mick Dines, Orange Amplification 1970-1972 GRO100 GRO50 3-digit (following after the originals) ???-??? Perspex (Plexi) front panel introduced. Controls are labelled with large pictures ('pics-only'), and the "boost" knob is taken away. Check out GRO schematics at Geert's site. The GRO models appear to be a transitional stage between the original Orange/Matamps, and the OR120's/OR80's. Both GRO's and OR's were made in this time period. GRO's underwent a few small circuit changes. OR's were wired with Type I tone stack, Type I Phase inverter, and Type I filtering specs. They should also have a choke inductor in the HF drive circuit, and no grid load resistor in the 1st stage. "...until 1970 when the Perspex reverse printed panels were introduced. I would say that your amplifier serial number 559 was manufactured in our small workshop in London somewhere between 1970 and 1972, after which the plastic panel was updated by a silk screen printed metal panel." -Mick Dines, Orange Amplification 1972-1973 ORS100 ORS50 OR80 OR120 ???-???(ORS) 120XXX(OR120) 80XXX(OR80) Front panel changed to screen printed metal, pics only No concrete info about the difference between the ORS models and the first pics-only OR120's/OR80's. OR series amps stay consistant with '70-'72 era models, but new PCB design makes them different internally towards mid-late '73. Pre-tubes are PCB mounted, and the layout changes drastically. No concrete info as to when the models changed from "ORS_" to OR_", or when serial numbers changed from 3 digit to 5 digit. Sometime between '72 and '73. 1973 OR120 OR80 10000-11000 New 5-digit serial number system starts Front panel labelled with text as well as pictures (pics and text). This started sometime in '73, after the pics-only OR120's and OR80's were made (120XXX, 80XXX serial numbers). All amps I have seen from 1973 are consistant electrically with the '70-'72 OR-series amps (Type I tone stack and PI...). They also are all the PCB mounted pre-tube syle circuit board, and have laydown transformers. No concrete info as to when the front panels changed from pics only to pics and text. Sometime in 1973. 1974 OR120 OR80 11000-12000 All amps are now pics and text models. Internal design goes back to chassis mounted pre-tubes. Standup transformers are used again. PI circuit is switched to type II (schematic dated 01/74). Choke inductor omitted from HF drive circuit. Adjustable bias circuit on all amps now. 220K grid load resistor added to first stage, V2A grid load changed to 1M. Filtering changes to Type II specs. Comments 1975 OR120 OR80 12000-13000 Power light switched from larger sized 6V lamp to smaller sized LER. Sometime in late '74 or '75 tone stack is changed to type II circuit. V2A grid load resistor is changed back to 220K. Comments 1976 OR120 OR80 OR120M OR80M 13000-14000 master volume added on the front panel for "Overdrive" models (OR120M, OR80M) Post phase inverter master volume added to overdrive models. Overdrive models introduced some time in 1976, these were the first models to feature a master volume. HF drive is labelled "Presence" on the Overdrive models. 1977 OR120 OR80 OR120M OR80M 14000-15000 Cosmetic Changes Electronic Changes Comments 1978 OR120 OR80 OR120M OR80M 15000-16000 Cosmetic Changes Electronic Changes Comments 1979 OR120 OR80 OR120M OR80M 16000-17000 Cosmetic Changes Electronic Changes Comments Circuit analysis and Explanation: